Text by: Ar. Naveen Zaman
Photography Credits: Durre Shahwar
Lahore, Pakistan – In a city steeped in centuries of history and layered with the echoes of diverse civilizations, a recent heritage walk through the vibrant Anarkali bazaar offered a profound glimpse into Lahore’s soul. The “Anarkali: Crossroads of Culture” heritage walk, meticulously curated and led by Ar. Naveen Zaman, founder of Lahore Awargi, provided participants with a journey “Seen and the Unseen,” uncovering the rich architectural heritage and the enduring spirit of coexistence that defines this historic neighborhood focusing on the Identities, Cultures and Religions.
Lahore, a city whose very foundations are built on the narratives of countless communities, finds its heritage walks to be an essential tool for understanding its multifaceted identity. These guided explorations are not mere strolls through old streets, but deeply immersive experiences that illuminate the city’s past and shape its present.
Anarkali, as showcased on this walk, stands as a testament to Lahore’s remarkable cultural heritage. It is a living mosaic where the whispers of ancient trade, fervent faith, artistic expression, and daily life converge. The bazaar is a captivating blend of elements, with tombs, Hindu temples, Sikh havelis, and colonial-era facades standing in close proximity, each contributing a chapter to the grand narrative of Lahore’s cultural evolution. This walk served as an invitation to wander through a district where history is not confined to museums but breathes in its very streets, revealing Anarkali as a true meeting point of traditions.
The history interwoven within Anarkali Bazaar is as diverse as the people who have called it home for centuries. Traces of Hindu, Muslim, Parsi, Sikh, and Christian communities are palpable, their stories etched into the architecture and the very fabric of the neighborhood. This heritage walk provided a unique platform for general public, many of whom are Lahoris themselves, to connect with like-minded individuals eager to explore Anarkali with a fresh perspective, brought to life through compelling storytelling, built heritage and flavors as essence of the past.
The journey commenced with a gathering at the iconic Pak Tea House, a hub for intellectual discourse and a landmark of Lahore’s literary past. From there, the group embarked on an exploration that began with a visit to the historic Balmik Temple, a significant site for the Hindu Balmiki community. The walk then led to Neela Gumbat, one of Lahore’s most renowned and bustling public squares. Here, the grandeur of the King Edward Medical University and the historic Ewing Hall, once a part of Forman Christian College, stood as proud emblems of the city’s educational legacy. The journey continued with a visit to the revered shrine of Hazrat Abdul Razak Makki. Architectural exploration revealed further layers of Anarkali’s past. The group observed the Bansi Dhar Temple, also known as the Hanuman Temple, which is now converted into residences but still holds echoes of its religious past. The resting place of Qutab-u-Ddin Aibak, the first Sultan of Delhi, was a somber reminder of the city’s Sultanate rule. The historic Lohari Gate, the bustling Dehli Muslim Hotel, the once-thriving Sarai Muhammad Shaffi, and the vibrant Pan Mandi offered glimpses into the commercial arteries of Anarkali. Ganpat Road (named after Ganpat Rai), underscored the pre-partition financial landscape due to its connected history to Punjab National Bank. The nearby Forman Memorial Church, later known as Lohari Gate (Presbyterian) Church shows it’s connection with the Charles William Forman founder of the prestigious FCCU. Vestiges of Parsi communities were evident in grand mansions, many now repurposed as shops and warehouses, alongside buildings showcasing the elegant Art Deco style prevalent in Lahore.
A poignant stop was made at the Ratan Singh Well, located opposite the famed bookstores of Anarkali, now unfortunately encroached upon and occupied by a shop. This well, established by a Sikh individual as a memorial, once served the vital function of providing drinking water to the diverse communities residing in the area, a testament to inter-community generosity. The walk also highlighted the deteriorating building of The Punjab Religious Book Society, later the Lahore Bible Society, a building in urgent need of conservation, underscoring the pressing need for heritage preservation efforts. The heritage walk culminated at the historic Holy Trinity Church of Anarkali. Participants were welcomed warmly by Rev. Qaisar Nadeem Joseph, who allowed the group to explore the interior spaces, offering a peaceful end to a day of profound discoveries and explorations.
Beyond the historical and architectural marvels, the Anarkali heritage walk also delighted the senses with the traditional flavors of the area. The exploration began with the renowned Zafar Halwa Puri and Lassi, a beloved breakfast staple, followed by a mid-day indulgence of rice pudding at Jhalandar Motichoor Cafe, a historic establishment serving since 1922. The group was also graciously invited into Mohkam Din Bakers, a bakery dating back to the 1860s, celebrated for its rich plum cakes and particularly cherished by the Christian community for its exquisite wedding cakes.
The impact of the “Anarkali: Crossroads of Culture” heritage walk on its participants was palpable. Beyond the acquisition of knowledge, the experience provoked a strengthened sense of identity, promoted cultural and religious harmony, and instilled a deep respect for diverse communities. Attendees left with a newfound appreciation for Lahore’s architectural heritage, a broadened palate from their culinary adventures, and, perhaps most importantly, a more profound and nuanced understanding of Lahore, a city that continues to unfold its stories, one heritage walk at a time.
Heritage Walk Details By: Ar. Naveen Zaman
Department of Architecture
University of Engineering and Technology, Lahore
